Post #24 - Scraped headstock binding

Had some time this morning to scrape down the headstock binding (after at least a 24 hour glue time).  Below you see the picture of the bindings/purflings glued up and taped down.

Here is the headstock after the tape is removed.  You can see the cement squeeze out.  The bindings will be flushed to the headstock veneer and the sides with a scraper.  The cement squeeze out will also be scraped off. 

And the finished headstock...that's more like it.

Post #23 - Binding headstock

Here is the guitar headstock.  I will be binding with I-B-I (similar to the binding that will be installed on the back).

I clamp it down and rout the binding with the Dremel with the binding attachment.  As always test with a crap piece of wood first to check depth of cut.  The corners are done carefully keeping one edge of the binding attachment flat with the headstock.

The binding will need to conform to a few sharp corners on the headstock.  Some builders miter the corners, but for this build, I'll be using a heat gun to soften the binding and conform its shape to to the binding edge.  I clamp the headstock and tape a section of the binding down.   With a heating gun, I work the corner with a wooden caul, being very careful not to melt the binding material.

Here is binding after some work with the heat gun and the caul.

Post #22b Update - End graft clean up.

Below in the end graft after the caul and tape have been removed. I trimmed the ends off with a small saw, and then scraped the end graft flush the the sides with my square scraper.  The second shot shows the end graft after scraped flush to the sides.  You can see I used painters tape to protect the top and back woods.

It is important to keep a good burr on the scraper.  Here's a good video on Youtube showing the sharpening technique.  You can just use a screwdriver shaft if you don't have a burnisher.

Post #22 - Soundbox enclosed; end graft installation

With the back installed, the soundbox is enclosed. I used the binding attachment and the dremel to cut the back flush to sides, moving more slowly and methodically this time.  As a result, no tearouts, which may be partially attributed to the rosewood being less likely to split compared to the top spuce wood.  Here is the soundbox, ready for the next steps.

I'm using ivoroid and black strips of binding for this build.  The end graft is also of ivoroid.  Below you can see the pencil lines for the end graft.  I use a straight edge and an exact-o knife to scribe along the pencil line for a clean edge.  I will excavate the wood with the dremel and the router attachment, set to a depth less than the end graft.  Below you see the soundbox lightly clamped to the workbench with cauls, being supported below.  They are just lightly clamped to hold them in place, not to support their weight.

Here is the where the end graft will be installed.  I will border the end graft with b-i-b (i=ivorioid).

Here is the channel excavated with the dremel.  The cavity is cleaned up with a chisel.

Since I only had b-i binding (the wide stuff), I cut it down in half to be installed with the end graft.   I set up opposing fences on the band saw and shot the b-i binding through.

Here are the pieces after being passed through the band saw.

Installed the pieces with cement.  Covered with tape and a caul, and "clamped" down with weights (nice to see my exercise equipment go to good use).  Waiting time - overnight to dry before clean up.

Post #21 - Flush trim top and bottom assembly

After removing the clamps, the top was flush trimmed with the dremel and binding router attachment.  One side went well. The other side not so well.  I move carefully on the first side, but the kids arrived to watch/help while I was working on the second side, and I ended up rushing and causing a few tear outs.  My binding strategy should be able cover these up, but I remember now why I had a hiatus from this hobby.  I took a few close ups shots of the tear outs below.

Here are the rims being prepped for the back install.  As with the top assembly, the kerf linings are notched and the botton braces are cut back to fit just within the sides below the notched kerfings.

And the shots of the back being glued up and clamped to form the soundbox.  Dry overnight and then glue clean up and flush cutting the back.

Post #20 - Top assembly

Had some time this evening, so I made final preparation for the top assembly. This involved notching the kerf linings for the top braces, and cutting the top bracing back to fit within the rim assembly, but underneath the notched kerfings.

Below are the final pieces before assembly.  The second photo shows the top glued and clamped up.

Post #19 - More kerfings and rim prep.

Below is a shot of the rims having the kerfings for the back being installed.

On the heal block where the kerfings end is a small gap.  Using a saw, I cut a partial kerf lining and use that to fill the gap as depicted below.

The rims are now read to be sanded with the radiusing stick to accept the top and back.  Top is radiused very slightly using the 5ø side of the radiusing stick.  The back is radiused using the 15ø side of the radiusing stick.

The last step before installing the top and back is to install the "popsicle sticks" to add strength to the sides.  I used the leftover rosewood from the sides to rip the rosewood  on the bandsaw.  I installed four on each side and below you see them being glued and clamped up.  

After glue clean up (I'm now using the moist cleanup method), the rims are ready.  Below are a few final shots before assembling the top.

The last piece on the top is the reinforcement installed at the intersection of the cross-braces.  I used a piece of cloth saturated in white glue and installed the reinforcement as shown below.  I also fine-tuned the tone braces.  The pieces are now ready for top assembly.