Post #21 - Flush trim top and bottom assembly

After removing the clamps, the top was flush trimmed with the dremel and binding router attachment.  One side went well. The other side not so well.  I move carefully on the first side, but the kids arrived to watch/help while I was working on the second side, and I ended up rushing and causing a few tear outs.  My binding strategy should be able cover these up, but I remember now why I had a hiatus from this hobby.  I took a few close ups shots of the tear outs below.

Here are the rims being prepped for the back install.  As with the top assembly, the kerf linings are notched and the botton braces are cut back to fit just within the sides below the notched kerfings.

And the shots of the back being glued up and clamped to form the soundbox.  Dry overnight and then glue clean up and flush cutting the back.

Post #20 - Top assembly

Had some time this evening, so I made final preparation for the top assembly. This involved notching the kerf linings for the top braces, and cutting the top bracing back to fit within the rim assembly, but underneath the notched kerfings.

Below are the final pieces before assembly.  The second photo shows the top glued and clamped up.

Post #19 - More kerfings and rim prep.

Below is a shot of the rims having the kerfings for the back being installed.

On the heal block where the kerfings end is a small gap.  Using a saw, I cut a partial kerf lining and use that to fill the gap as depicted below.

The rims are now read to be sanded with the radiusing stick to accept the top and back.  Top is radiused very slightly using the 5ø side of the radiusing stick.  The back is radiused using the 15ø side of the radiusing stick.

The last step before installing the top and back is to install the "popsicle sticks" to add strength to the sides.  I used the leftover rosewood from the sides to rip the rosewood  on the bandsaw.  I installed four on each side and below you see them being glued and clamped up.  

After glue clean up (I'm now using the moist cleanup method), the rims are ready.  Below are a few final shots before assembling the top.

The last piece on the top is the reinforcement installed at the intersection of the cross-braces.  I used a piece of cloth saturated in white glue and installed the reinforcement as shown below.  I also fine-tuned the tone braces.  The pieces are now ready for top assembly.

Post #18 - Kerfings installation for top.

Since clean up of back can be done through the soundhole, I'm installing the soundboard first.  This way so glue clean up of the top can be done before  the back is installed.  Below are pics of the top kerfings being installed using glue and clamps/clothespins. You'll note rubber bands for each clothespin to provide greater clamping pressure. 

Post #17 - Assembly prep - rims and back brace profiling

In preparation for the soundbox assembly, I had to set the rim height.  I followed the suggestions in the Cumpiano chapter on rim assembly for steel strings.  The tail block defines the height of the rims from the tail block to about 2" below the waist, called the "peak".  From there, the rims reduce in height generally linearly to the head block.  I scribed the line on the interior of the rims to help guide the process for plaining with the block planer.

Below is a picture of the rough shaped-rim.  I'll take some critical measurements and fine tune, and it will be ready for the kerfings.

In preparation for shaping the kerfings, I had to put together another jig - a radiusing sanding stick.  I generally followed the suggestions from this site for building one.  Below you can see the two sanding surface blocks glued to a 2' piece of stock.  I used shims to set sanding angles at approximately 1.5º and 5º.  

The last piece of preparation was setting the back bracing profiles.  Below you can see the braces before profiling.

Here are the braces after rough shaping with a chisel.

Here are the braces after clean up shaping with a block sander.

Here are the completed braces on the back. 

Post #16 Error correction - back bracing.

After clamping down the center two back braces, I inspected the upper bout back brace (B-1) and discovered it was not perfectly parallel with the other braces.  I ended up removing it with hot water, a hair dryer and a spatula knife.  Below you can see the brace removed and the back cleaned up for re-gluing.  It was back to the bench belt sander to clean brace B-1 before installing.

This time I tripled check the square. 

And then installed the rest of the clamps.  After some glue squeeze out clean up, it was time to wait for it to dry and set up.

Post #15 - Back bracing part 1

I caved in and used a moist towel to clean up the glue on the back.  Just to be safe, I clamped the back strip down again after the moist clean up and allowed it to dry before moving on. After the clean up it was time to mark the bracing locations. I used my template to mark the back brace locations.

Using a square, I scribe the saw lines.  Portions of the center strip are removed to accommodate the rear braces. The square is also used to guide the saw for cutting the center strip.  A little painters tape for protection.

Below you can see the portions of the center strip removed and cleaned with a chissel.  I finish the clean up with 120 paper.

Here are four back braces being dry fit.  I use shims on the side edges of the back to help maintain the radius when the braces are glued down.

Here are two braces being glued down.  Again the square was used to align the braces while clamping.  A bit of clean up for the glue squeeze out and then wait a bit for it to dry and switch to the other two braces.